1928 - Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

The 1928 Brane-Cantenac is a wine that I have tasted on two or three occasions, twice at the château. The best bottle has always been one that Henri Lurton served from one of the last remaining in the cellar (unfortunately, the Lurtons never maintained library reserves). It has a deep, slightly turbid color. The palate is wonderful, unveiling nuances with each swirl of the glass: smudged red fruit, hints of bay, satsumas sitting in an antique vase under the sun. The palate is mature but the vigor is extant and the acidity is pinpoint perfect. This is quite smooth in texture, with veins of desiccated orange peel and cedar toward a finish that holds up well in the glass. Beguiling. Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château.